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Wednesday, March 7, 2012
On Radon Continuous Monitoring
In the past I have used cannister type radon monitoring units that you use, after sampling as directed, to send to the company which establishes a reading. I have been aware that for about $800. US, one can buy a continuous sampling electronic device, which is quite accurate. This is the type used by radon contractors in multiple areas of a home when they are assessing whether radon abatement of some type may be necessary. Recently, I discovered that there is a device which originally sold for about $170. (US $) which can continuously sample the air for radon, not unlike the manner in which a carbon monoxide detector samples on a continuous basis.
You can purchase this unit for the discounted price of about $129.00 from :
http://www.radonattahoe.com
Keep in mind that this unit needs to be sent to its manufacturer annually for calibration. I have not yet purchased this unit myself, but within the next month I probably will, and then I can report on its workings as well as whether I see the potential spike in radon emissions prior to an earthquake or an aftershock.
If Radon at Tahoe is sold out, you might try Amazon.com for the same unit which may be available at another supplier.
Using Measured Radon Spikes as An Indicator of Impending Earthquakes ?
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| (Photo: US Geological Survey, from their website: energy.cr.usgs.gov) |
We do know that if you have measured your radon levels in your home, and you have a significant earthquake (yes, like the 5.8 in Virginia in August, 2011) that you should remeasure your radon levels in your home and particularly in your basement. This makes sense because in many places in the US, there is subterranean uranium, and when a quake occurs, there may be new pathways created which allow radon to emanate from the now fractured uranium rock up through the Earth and into a home or other structure. Of course, it is also possible following an earthquake, that you could have LESS radon entering your home than you did prior. In homes in areas with extremely frequent seismic activity, it may make sense to shell out the $800. US for a continuous radon monitor. I have not, as yet done this, but perhaps I should consider it for another reason as well.
This is the first time, of which I am aware, that scientists have felt that a spike in radon levels in an area, which could be measured using a real time detector, could indicate an impending earthquake.
The following article can be found at:
http://physicsworld.com/cws/article/news/42015
Again, the information between the two sets of undulating lines is the work product of PhysicsWorld and of James Dacey, the author of the article.
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A Radon Detector for Earthquake Prediction by James Dacey
Recent events in Haiti and Chile remind us of the devastation that can be wrought by an earthquake, especially when it strikes without warning. For centuries, people living in seismically active regions have reported a number of strange occurrences immediately prior to a quake, including unexpected weather phenomena and even unusual behaviour among animals. In more recent times, some scientists have suggested other precursors, such as sporadic bursts of electromagnetic radiation from the fault zone. Unfortunately, none of these suggestions has led to a robust, scientific method for earthquake prediction.
Now, however, a group of physicists, led by physics Nobel laureate Georges Charpak, has developed a new detector that could measure one of the more testable earthquake precursors – the suggestion that radon gas is released from fault zones prior to earth slipping.
Spewing from the Earth's guts
In the last decade, several studies have concluded that elevated concentrations of radon gas in soil or groundwater could be the sign of an imminent earthquake. It is believed that the radon is released from cavities and cracks as the Earth's crust is strained prior to the sudden slip of an earthquake. In order to test this hypothesis, however, researchers would need to deploy several hundred detector devices along a fault zone. Although several commercial devices could, in theory, perform this task, these devices are too expensive for large-scale application. In addition, it is not clear whether many of these devices would still work in the presence of water.Charpak's alternative detector is based on established technology already in action in extreme conditions at laboratories such as CERN. It consists of a wire-type counter, which is the concept for which Charpak won his Nobel prize in 1992. In these devices, particles such as radon enter a gas-filled container and ionize some of the gas particles. The resulting ions and electrons are accelerated by a potential on the wire, causing a cascade of ionization that results in a current in the wire.
One key feature of this new detector design is that it works with ambient air, thus avoiding the need to keep refilling the detector's ionization chamber with a particular gas. It also has a high efficiency, which was achieved by including multiple wires in the ionization chamber. In laboratory tests, the researchers report a radon count of 140 Bq.m–3 over one minute, which is comparable to that offered by commercial devices. The tests also show that the device still functions in 70% humidity, while single-wire detectors start to falter at just 30% (arXiv: 1002.4732v1).
Detecting success
"The instrument they propose is based on a very old and very well established detector technology," says Ariella Cattai, a detector physicist at CERN. "What is very original with this work is the way they want to operate these detectors – in simple air and not in a complicated gas mixture like we normally use."Paulo Fonte, director of the Instrumentation Laboratory of Portugal (LIP), agrees that in using the ionization of air the researchers have "broken a taboo" in detection, and he does not foresee any major hurdles in developing this proto device into a commercially viable detector. "It detects alpha particles, which is all that is needed to detect heavy radioactive contaminants. I don't know how well [this research] is funded, but even if the chances of succeeding are slim, the prize would be so important that it is for sure worth investigating."
A member of Charpak's team, Vladimir Peskov, who works at the National Autonomous University of Mexico, says that the group's next step is to run more tests and develop a way of networking the detectors along a fault zone. They will also investigate ways of monitoring radon levels in groundwater.
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Other posts concerning radon and earthquake issues may be found on this blog at:
http://rationalpreparedness.blogspot.com/2012/02/radon-hazards.html
http://rationalpreparedness.blogspot.com/2012/02/here-we-go-againanother-aftershock.html
Monday, March 5, 2012
On Feedback
Most of the time, I receive encouraging and constructive feedback to my blogs. This week however, both blogs have had some interesting and somewhat critical feedback. Please know, that as described on my "Provide Information Or Feedback to Me" page, I will answer to explain my choices.
Jim,
Thanks for your input. My message in the post on handtools on a preparedness forum, is simply that all people, women and men should begin to gather hand tools as they see them reasonably priced, and begin to collect those which may be useful. Please understand that I cannot post many of the pictures of things I would like to. Many pictures are copywritten, and when they are used even with credit given, the owners want them removed. I often must use a second choice picture because I have received permission to do so, when the ideal picture owner has refused. The same was true of my choice of firearm pictures in another recent post.
Secondly, please understand that this is entirely an unpaid endeavor in which subscribers receive a lot of quality information at absolutely no charge whatsoever. Most of them are actually quite grateful for the reports, and the directions in which the posts, a snippet on such a subject takes them.
I think you missed my point on what is indeed called here in Virginia, a Mexican framer. My point is that an exquisitely balanced hammer or hatchet is absolutely worth the extra funds paid for it. I am also originally from California and I am acutely aware of many of the differences between verbage and the landscape between California and here. I assure you that my builders, who collected millions from tasks locally in the past year, is indeed an expert.
I am afraid that I only have the time to devote to a unpaid endeavor that I do. My suggestion to you, is that you should create, maintain and add to a blog devoted to minute details concerning handtools, their availabilities in other areas and nations, their nuances, and histories. I am afraid that you may find it a shade more difficult than you think.
Jane of Virginia

_______________________________________________________________
The post received:
From fruitystus@aol.com
Hi Jane -
I found your site by following a photo of a brace. I'm a general contractor and woodworker from Glendora, California. I'm writing because I expect you to get comments on your comments about tools. I like the issues you bring up, but the devil is in the details and many woodworkers are rabid about accuracy concerning their beloved craft. For example the "drill" you pictured is a brace. It's not easy to use. It takes practice. It's a tool for making large holes . . . 1/4" in diameter or bigger. You would never use it to start a hole. The "plane" you pictured is a scraper. It is technically a "scraper plane", but most tool companies don't list it in the same category as planes. And in any case would not be used to trim a door. The "California Framer" hammer you pictured is not a California framer. A California Framer has a handle that is shaped like a hatchet handle. Most California carpenters would consider calling it a Mexican Framer insulting to everyone. It's true enough that we hire many carpenters from south of our border, but many are not and do not want to be called Mexican. If you look at a globe there are actually quite a few countries south of our border. Many of those countries speak Spanish. Beyond that there's little these peoples have in common. And, for the record, I think very highly of the carpenters I've hired (and others that I've had the pleasure of meeting) from those "other" countries. I don't know that anyone meant to be insulting to Mexican (or other Spanish speaking) carpenters working in California, but I want to be clear that in my opinion we owe them the respect they've earned among their peers in the California construction industry. Because I can tell by your writing that you sought "expert opinion" concerning tools, I thought you should know that either your "expert" duped you intentionally or they just aren't expert. Do what you would have done if this was an article on nursing. Seek experts. Get opinions about your experts. Get more opinions. And only after exhausting your search, publish. If it's important enough to write about, do it well. You've let yourself down on this one.
But, again, I like what your trying to do.
Regards,
Jim
Jim,
Thanks for your input. My message in the post on handtools on a preparedness forum, is simply that all people, women and men should begin to gather hand tools as they see them reasonably priced, and begin to collect those which may be useful. Please understand that I cannot post many of the pictures of things I would like to. Many pictures are copywritten, and when they are used even with credit given, the owners want them removed. I often must use a second choice picture because I have received permission to do so, when the ideal picture owner has refused. The same was true of my choice of firearm pictures in another recent post.
Secondly, please understand that this is entirely an unpaid endeavor in which subscribers receive a lot of quality information at absolutely no charge whatsoever. Most of them are actually quite grateful for the reports, and the directions in which the posts, a snippet on such a subject takes them.
I think you missed my point on what is indeed called here in Virginia, a Mexican framer. My point is that an exquisitely balanced hammer or hatchet is absolutely worth the extra funds paid for it. I am also originally from California and I am acutely aware of many of the differences between verbage and the landscape between California and here. I assure you that my builders, who collected millions from tasks locally in the past year, is indeed an expert.
I am afraid that I only have the time to devote to a unpaid endeavor that I do. My suggestion to you, is that you should create, maintain and add to a blog devoted to minute details concerning handtools, their availabilities in other areas and nations, their nuances, and histories. I am afraid that you may find it a shade more difficult than you think.
Jane of Virginia

_______________________________________________________________
The post received:
From fruitystus@aol.com
Hi Jane -
I found your site by following a photo of a brace. I'm a general contractor and woodworker from Glendora, California. I'm writing because I expect you to get comments on your comments about tools. I like the issues you bring up, but the devil is in the details and many woodworkers are rabid about accuracy concerning their beloved craft. For example the "drill" you pictured is a brace. It's not easy to use. It takes practice. It's a tool for making large holes . . . 1/4" in diameter or bigger. You would never use it to start a hole. The "plane" you pictured is a scraper. It is technically a "scraper plane", but most tool companies don't list it in the same category as planes. And in any case would not be used to trim a door. The "California Framer" hammer you pictured is not a California framer. A California Framer has a handle that is shaped like a hatchet handle. Most California carpenters would consider calling it a Mexican Framer insulting to everyone. It's true enough that we hire many carpenters from south of our border, but many are not and do not want to be called Mexican. If you look at a globe there are actually quite a few countries south of our border. Many of those countries speak Spanish. Beyond that there's little these peoples have in common. And, for the record, I think very highly of the carpenters I've hired (and others that I've had the pleasure of meeting) from those "other" countries. I don't know that anyone meant to be insulting to Mexican (or other Spanish speaking) carpenters working in California, but I want to be clear that in my opinion we owe them the respect they've earned among their peers in the California construction industry. Because I can tell by your writing that you sought "expert opinion" concerning tools, I thought you should know that either your "expert" duped you intentionally or they just aren't expert. Do what you would have done if this was an article on nursing. Seek experts. Get opinions about your experts. Get more opinions. And only after exhausting your search, publish. If it's important enough to write about, do it well. You've let yourself down on this one.
But, again, I like what your trying to do.
Regards,
Jim
Sunday, March 4, 2012
The Document Evacuation Bag
By now, most of you have a Medical Supply Closet, an Evacuation Medical Bag, a General Evacuation Bag, and we must consider another variety. This is a "Document Evacuation Bag". Many of us keep essential documents in a safe deposit box or even a safe, but if you left your home, and a tornado or a flood hit and you never could return to your home, or simply never did, you would need a variety of documents. I formulated one of these some time ago, and it lives in a hidden home safe, so that it could depart with us quickly if need be. (Make sure that you and another member of your household can open the safe quickly. Practice if necessary.)
Some of the things contain in mine are:
Passports
Original copies of birth certificates (Other Originals are in a safe deposit box)
Original copy of marriage certificate (Yes, they had them back in the Dark Ages)
Social Security Cards, if not just numbers
Copies of university transcripts and copies of college degree diplomas
Copies of professional licenses
Very small typed listing of all banking and insurance information (house, car, health etc.) and account numbers.
(Some people include a flash drive with this information as a backup as well.)
Discs with family photos on them.
Property Deed copies (and a survey if you have room)
Vehicle Deed copies.
Blank checks, banking paperwork
We also have a disc with our farm, rooms, and possessions documented should we ever need to claim on our insurance.
Keys
We also keep a small file with Called Health Evacuation File which includes
1. Brief health histories for each family member,
2. Med sheet for each family member
3. Physician and dentist listing, and pharmacy contact info for each family member
4. Pictures of each person
5. We also keep xerox copies of any long term prescriptions we are on, in the event that we ever had to evacuate this area and prove that we were taking certain medications.
You may wish to add:
Legal Documents
Tax information if needed
Remember that this is a starting point. Different families and individuals will need to configure different types of Document Evacuation Kits.
Details and complete information on this topic can be found in my book:
Rational Preparedness: A Primer to Preparedness
which is available on amazon.com, barnesandnoble.com
_______________________
Once you have gathered the kits we have discussed, courtesy of : Phantomranch.net
They recommend the following:
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WHAT TO DO BEFORE LEAVING
- ___ Close evacuation car windows but DO NOT LOCK CAR and leave keys in ignition
- ___ Close fire resistant window coverings, heavy drapes, and Venetian blinds
- ___ Close garage door but leave it unlocked (disconnect automatic garage door opener)
- ___ Close or cover outside vents and shutters
- ___ Cose sliding glass doors into the center of the house (DON'T lock them)
- ___ Determine where separated members will meet
- ___ Disconnect propane tank
- ___ Don't tie up telephone lines (notify friends and relatives by e-mail where to contact you)
- ___ Establish an evacuation plan, travel route, probable destination
- ___ Fill bathtubs, sinks, and containers with water
- ___ Fill evacuation vehicle gas tank
- ___ Follow any official agency's evacuation instructions
- ___ If instructed, tie large white cloth to front door knob
- ___ Leave one light on in each general area so firefighters can see your house in dark and smoke
- ___ Lock doors and windows
- ___ Make safety equipment obvious for firefighters (spigots, ladders, chain saws, hoses, etc.)
- ___ Move overstuffed furniture away from windows
- ___ Park evacuation vehicle in the garage heading toward street and travel route
- ___ Place a ladder against the roof of the house on the side opposite the approaching fire
- ___ Plug air vents and openings that are close to the ground
- ___ Prepare an "information note" to leave on the door detailing who you are and where you have gone
- ___ In your "information note" tell where flammables are (such as lawnmower gas, ammo, chemicals - move them all into one place)
- ___ Release any livestock in the area
- ___ Remove combustible items from around the outside of the house
- ___ Remove lace, nylon, or light material drapes and curtains
- ___ Soak burlap sacks, small rugs, or large rags in containers
- ___ Turn off appliances, thermostats, fireplaces, stoves
- ___ Turn off natural gas at meter
- ___ Turn on exterior lights
WHAT TO DO NOW TO PREPARE
- ___ Clear debris from roof and gutters
- ___ Clear driveway to at least 20 feet wide with 15 feet vertical clearance (for emergency vehicles)
- ___ Clear vegetation from within 3 feet of hydrants
- ___ Clear weeds and cut grass within 10 feet of structures, propane tanks, utility boxes
- ___ Develop outdoor water supply with hoses to reach entire house, nozzle, and pump
- ___ Document an annotated list of all belongings
- ___ Have fire tools, ladder, and fire extinguishers available
- ___ Install chimney screen or spark arrestor
- ___ Install enclosed sides on stilt foundations and decks
- ___ Install only non-combustible roof material
- ___ Install screens on foundation and eave vents
- ___ Install shutters, fire curtains, or heavy drapes on windows
- ___ Install smoke detectors and test quarterly
- ___ Keep evacuation vehicle gas tank full
- ___ Make a video of all belongings, talking about each
- ___ Post load limits on access bridges
- ___ Post name/address signs clearly visible from street or road
- ___ Practice family fire drill and evacuation plans
- ___ Practice STOP, DROP, and ROLL (should clothes catch on fire)
- ___ Prepare a list of valuables to take with you (store together, if possible)
- ___ Remove branches that overhang withing 15 feet of roof and chimney
- ___ Remove trash and debris accumulations
- ___ Remove trees growing through porch, deck, or roof
- ___ Stack firewood uphill or on a contour at least 30 feet away from house
- ___ Take still pictures of all belongings as a backup
- ___ Thin and prune your trees and brush
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The suggestions within the two sets of undulating lines are the work product of Phantomranch.net
How Are Your Medical Kits ? Evacuation Kits ?
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| This might be your Medical Evacuation Kit |
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| This is wonderful to have. You can enclose your important documents in this, prior to placing them in your Harvard Document Bag. |
When I started this blog, there were an abundance of posts on beginning a variety of kits which could be useful in in an emergency situation of some kind.
This is the link to "Creating Your Own Medical Kit for Home Base"
http://rationalpreparedness.blogspot.com/2011/09/creating-your-own-emergency-medical-kit.html
This is the "Continuation of the Medical Kit for Home Base....Medication Listings"
http://rationalpreparedness.blogspot.com/2011/10/continuation-of-emergency-medical-kit.html
This is "Dehydration and Rehydration"
http://rationalpreparedness.blogspot.com/2011/11/dehydration-and-rehydration-solutions.html
This is "The Dental Emergency Kit"
http://rationalpreparedness.blogspot.com/2011/11/dental-emergency-kit.html
This is "Potassium Iodide and Potassium Iodate"
http://rationalpreparedness.blogspot.com/2011/11/potassium-iodide-and-potassium-iodate.html
This is "Wisdom with Antibiotics"
http://rationalpreparedness.blogspot.com/2011/11/wisdom-with-antibiotics.html
This is "A Great Emergency Surgical Kit"
http://rationalpreparedness.blogspot.com/2011/12/great-emergency-surgical-kit.html
This is "Assembling Your Own Excellent First Aid Kit"
http://rationalpreparedness.blogspot.com/2011/12/assembling-your-own-excellent-first-aid.html
This is "On Emergency War Surgery....A Reference Book"
http://rationalpreparedness.blogspot.com/2012/01/emergency-war-surgerythe-nato-manual.html
This is "Updated Information on the Diabetic E-case"
http://rationalpreparedness.blogspot.com/2012/01/updated-information-on-diabetic-ecase.html
This is "Emergency Flu Preparation"
http://rationalpreparedness.blogspot.com/2012/02/emergency-flu-preparation.html
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
This in itself, is a great deal of information, and I needed time for readers to digest all of the medical information before adding more to what can be an overwhelming pile of things to do.
I see things a little differently than "Dyed in the wool survivalists". I believe that most families need first to address the need for a Home Medical Kit. This was covered in "Creating Your Own Medical Kit for Home Base". In many families, this kit is going to include things like nebulizers and vaporizers and may not travel easily or well. It may be best located in a shelved closet. For smaller families, this home kit could be located in some medical kit bags, and could also be your "Medical Evacuation Kit". In my family we have a small room with medical supplies (like a canning room), and then a separate medical evacuation kit, should we ever need to leave here in a hurry.
Following the Medical Evacuation Kit, (and the home kit), the next thing to gather, really should be what I term, the "Evacuation Kit". (Some others call it a "Bug Out Bag") At first, this may be supplies for three days for your family, but ours is packaged for a week. This kit should allow you to grab it, and have emergency supplies, (the medical being in the other bag) This kit, the general evacuation kit, probably fits best in a backpack. Large families might actually have to employ two backpacks for such a purpose.
General Evacuation Kit Supplies: This kit's job is to get you where you are going when you have to leave home.
At the very least must start with:
Water, sufficient for each family member. This is heavy, so certainly, you will likely only be able to carry enough for travel. Some people use plastic water bottles. I use the foil covered variety from Sam's Club because they have a longer shelf life and can be stored a bit longer than plastic bottles without rotation. These should be spread out between a couple of backpacks should you have a large family and should you use 2 backpacks as a General Evacuation Kit.
Many people bring a Katahdin brand or a Berkey small portable water purifier should they need to drink other water where they are going. I also include some water purifying rablets.
(Like these: http://beprepared.com/category.asp?start=0&c=140&sid=google&gclid=CMHcrZfKza4CFUXc4AodEGC8Ew )
Secondly, some food bars, granola bars and some small packages of freezer dried, "backpack meals" are a good idea. I bought some of these on sale recently that are the "Mountain House" brand. These are very light and easily reconstituted. We also have a few plastic forks and spoons.
We also keep gatorade powder in small individual containers should someone be dehydrated and require a but more than water during travel.
Third, we have packed small plastic bags for sanitation, packaged wipes with benzalkonium chloride, for quick cleaning, and toilet paper with the cardboard roll inside extracted. We flatten the paper once it is without the cardboard roll and it travels much easier. We like the Scott brand, if you are in the US or Canada.
We would place any medications we use daily in our Medical Evacuation Kit.
These are other items which you might consider stocking:
Quick change of clothing (see below) especially socks
Bug repellant
Fire starting supplies
US and good regional map
Magnifying glass and compass
Cash and change (which I keep with my documents)
Flattened portable water collection bag
Your favorite flashlights in multiple sizes
Lightsticks (great for children.)
Small radio or portable HAM if you have it.
survival knife or small axe
handgun and ammunition if appropriate for your area
shotgun or rifle may be more appropriate for some areas, with ammo also.
gloves
all weather plastic ponchos
female sanitary supplies
deodorant, toothbrushes and toothpaste, small shampoo, other toiletries.
underwear for all.
Duct tape and rope
Keep in mind, if you have an infant, then diapers, wipes and formula, possibly powdered varieties will be necessary.
Because we have so many animals in an evacuation, we keep a completely outfitted truck for their evacuation, and would still need outside assistance which we have arranged, in the event of a complete and urgent evacuation from this farm. For this reason, our evacuation kits do not contain animal food, bowls, or their meds. It is quite possible though, that your kit should.
Since we would evacuate from here using our cars, I keep some items in the car in a backpack already.
These would include a pair of rugged boots or shoes, a couple of pairs of socks, a shirt which could be changed. I also always have a couple of tarpaulins in my car, and a blanket sealed in a Space Bag.
Keep in mind, this is a starting point only, and that your own needs and location will dictate what you truly need to have with you.
Of course, the best and most complete source for all this information is my book:
Rational Preparedness: A Primer to Preparedness
Saturday, March 3, 2012
Virginia Repeals the "One Handgun a Month Rule"
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| This is one of my favorite weapons. This is a Sig Sauer. This particular one takes a 40 s&w ammo, which can effectively stop almost anything. |
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| This is my back-up weapon. It takes the same ammo as my primary weapon. It is similarly secured elsewhere. This is a Glock 27. This particular one also takes a 40 S&W caliber round. |
This week, Virginia Governor Bob McDonnell signed the repeal of the "One handgun a month" law in Virginia, as it came to him from the Virginia legislature. This move has been widely criticized by gun control advocates. First of all, in Virginia, when one purchases a gun of any kind,in advance of such a purchase, the dealer calls a particular team of experts who are state police troopers, and with the full computer database system of the state police and links to federal ones as well, that persons three pages of information combined with their identification information is run. This might be an instant database check, or it may not be. Sometimes, if information is found on the person or someone with a similar name, they will call the dealer back in several hours. The state police make sure not only that you have not had any convictions of any kind, but also that you do not have a mental health history for which you have been hospitalized, or that you have any domestic assault calls to police, whether you have been convicted of such, or not. Believe it or not, this check by police is very good and quite comprehensive. I have guns which were specially ordered by a particular individual whose background check came back from state police as less than perfect, and then the gun had to be discounted, and I bought it. There are also people who have names which are similar to those with criminal records who must wait while the state police ascertain that they are not the "James C. Smith" convicted of something in 1997. In Virginia, checks before gun purchases are pretty detailed.
Secondly, it may not seem that being permitted to buy a handgun every thirty days is unfair, however, it can be restrictive. Periodically, Virginia police, SWAT, detectives, etc. consign their almost new handguns as their department acquires the newest ones. Under the old law, I was only able to buy one of these amazing and exceptionally maintained weapons from a dealer, because of the "one handgun rule". I was not able to buy two and then close the purchase every thirty days, because these weapons are such a hot property and are sold so quickly. This means I miss the opportunity periodically to purchase a couple of the same weapon. This can be a very wise thing to do. Having two of the same handgun can be very wise. When one gun it out receiving maintenance, you still have the weapon which is most familiar to you, available and in use. When a weapon which is normally a couple of thousand dollars, is available for $800. many of us would like to buy two. Then, I quite likely may go for another year without buying another. I also might have liked the idea of providing the same model of weapon to my eldest son, and myself. The repeal of this law might make the purchase of several of the same weapon possible when necessary.
People who are unfamiliar with handguns do not realize that there are truly different guns of different purposes. Some handguns are wonderful to carry, but lack the power you might need should you need to use one. Others have power like a hand cannon, but might be hard going to carry in the hot summer, especially for a women in less clothing than in winter. There are many guns for many purposes, and sometimes people would like to own, one for the farm, for example, and a different one to carry during the day day. Many people use one weapon to carry and one of the same model with which to practice. Monthly practice makes us very good with our weapon, but it accelerates the need for professional assessment and maintenance of the practice weapon. The repeal of this law makes these uses more possible for law abiding citizens.
Thirdly, my having multiple weapons and a concealed weapons permit (as do many adult members of my household) makes my home safer than homes without, not less safe. I can't carry a rifle with me everywhere, but I can carry a sidearm, as I live my life and work on the farm, pretty much without anyone knowing. This weapon allows me to repel predators which are attacking livestock, kill probable rabid animals before they get close enough to us or our own animals, and potentially defend ourselves from anything from abduction to robbery. Guns have made my family more safe in an increasingly dangerous world, not less so. There are many times when a deputy from the sheriff's office simply can't make it here quickly enough. Our being armed makes it less likely that we will be robbed and attacked, and my newest kydex holster makes it much less likely that anyone can grab my weapon, even if they know its there, as I use the same type of custom holster as do local police.
The Mayor of New York City has expressed concern that allowing the purchase of more than one handgun in Virginia might translate to a few winding up in New York City. Last I checked, Virginia has strict laws against sending these weapons anywhere other than Virginia. Crimes involving weapons are prosecuted vigorously here. (See our very full prisons) I also notice that handguns are virtually impossible for law abiding citizens in New York to own. Mayor Bloomberg, maybe if you had a mechanism by which law abiding citizens could own handguns, then a few would not feel compelled to own one illegally. Remember that if handguns are outlawed, then only the criminals will have guns. Believe me, you want law abiding people like myself, who are properly trained and who hold a concealed weapons permit, and people like my family in possession of one. In very bad times or disasters, people like us might be important to the protection of people, animals and property.
Friday, March 2, 2012
Revisiting Our Stock of Food
In the preparedness community there are lots of discussions about stocking food. Most of us, worldwide are observing an increase in food prices, and most of us would like to stock ahead somewhat if simply to avoid paying a substantial amount more for food in the next month or year. There are also enough natural disasters in many places that most reasonable people see the need to stock some extra food for emergencies, just as our grandparents did. There are laws in most places in the world now, which prohibit "food hoarding". Where does food storage end, and hoarding begin ?
First we should examine what our local and federal laws say with regard to food storage. A friend of ours in Belgium tried to buy a large sack of grains this week, and he was provided with a large amount of paperwork. His government now tracks those who buy in excess of what the new government considers "normal amounts". Our friends declined to complete their purchase, and will not simply buy more often, rather than large amounts. Here in the US, in a sense our information is tracked when we buy from a "big box store" such as Sam's Club or Costco. Our purchases made with our club card are logged presumably in order to notify us of recalls in our purchases, but without our being aware, they also, through using this information, could calculate our food stores, and add this information to a database.
It's important to say here that we are not in the business of hoarding food to sell to others during a crisis or an emergency of some kind. I am in the business of meeting the basic needs of my family in all weathers, just as my parents did, and just as their parents did before them. I have no intention of breaking any laws or of attracting any attention whatsoever, and so I purchase what I can in sensible amounts, for cash whenever possible, from a wide variety of sellers, and then I rotate that stock as I use it. I have no particular religious reason for doing so. I simply believe that buying items on sale and stocking them, is a more solid family business practice than paying the maximal price when the item is desperately needed.
If you're starting to stock a food supply at home, a lot of variables impact what you should have there. If you have babies and small children, then food for them is going to impact what you stock, and I have no infant formula or anything of that type in mine, for example. If you have a gluten intolerant person, what you stock will have to reflect their needs. If you begin food storage, then you need a clean area which will allow you to stock and rotate your food stores. Most people should start with building a week of extra supplies you could draw upon in an emergency. Most people expand that, over time to a month. Some keep three months ahead. Depending upon your location, you might stock as much as a year of food in advance. If that sounds excessive, then keep in mind that there are many families in the US who have lost jobs in the past year, and are only able to feed their families now because they stocked their own emergency food pantry in better times. The advent of freeze dried food for sale by companies like Augason Farms, and Emergency Essentials, make the storage of staple foods possible in much less space than would be conventionally possible. Some of their containers will last for as long as 30 years. This of course, makes possible the storage of emergency food for multiple years possible. In my house we always seek balance, and since my most important job is the education and example setting for our kids, albeit almost all adults now, I try to use everything available to me. I keep a few freeze dried sources of things, some packages of flour and powdered mashed potatoes, canned vegetables, canned fruits, etc. and I try to rotate these so everything stays fresh. We also add our own eggs to our diets from our own chickens, and I grow a few things in the garden and on fruit trees each year. Fresh food is important to eat whenever you can get it. I differ from the picture above in terms of ketchup and mayonnaise, because we don't use a lot of mayonnaise, and because I could make my own. I don't buy smaller bottles of ketchup, but one large container we use primarily to add a half a cup to a large meatloaf I make periodically. I also don't buy soda. My kids love soda, but it's not something we stock in the house, and they have it, if they go out to dinner or something. I do also have a soda machine (Sodastream) I have as yet, never used, but bought as a Christmas present this past year.
Putting away supplies of emergency food for winter or emergencies need not cost a fortune. It is a gradual reasonable progression, which does not have to be excessive or a singular devotion. In all things, we should seek balance and moderation.
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